Broadhead Chart & Selection Guide

Q: What broadheads should I use for deer hunting?

For deer: Fixed blade broadheads are most reliable. Recommended: Muzzy Trocar (100-125 grain, 3-blade), Slick Trick Magnum (100-125 grain, 4-blade), G5 Montec (100-125 grain, 3-blade). Mechanical option: Rage Hypodermic (100 grain, 2-inch cut). Choose 100-125 grain weight, cut diameter 1-1.5 inches for fixed blade or 1.5-2 inches for mechanical. Total arrow weight should be 400-500 grains.

Q: What's the difference between fixed blade and mechanical broadheads?

Fixed blade broadheads: Blades always exposed, more reliable, better penetration on bone, no moving parts to fail, fly like field points when tuned. Best for: elk, large game, quartering shots, traditional bows. Mechanical (expandable) broadheads: Blades deploy on impact, larger cut diameter (1.5-2+ inches), fly more like field points without tuning, less penetration through heavy bone. Best for: deer, antelope, broadside shots, high-speed compounds. Fixed blades are more reliable but require more tuning. Mechanicals are more forgiving but can fail on heavy bone.

Q: What grain broadhead should I use?

Broadhead weight recommendations: Deer/antelope: 100 grain standard, 125 grain for better penetration. Elk/black bear: 125 grain minimum, 150 grain preferred for heavy arrows. Moose/brown bear: 150-200 grain for maximum penetration. Turkey: 100-125 grain with large cut diameter. Match your broadhead weight to your field point weight for identical arrow flight. Heavier broadheads improve FOC and penetration but reduce speed. Use our broadhead weight calculator to determine optimal weight for your setup.

Complete guide to choosing the right broadheads for hunting.
Fixed blade vs mechanical broadheads for deer, elk, turkey, and big game.
Popular models, specifications, and expert recommendations.

🎯 Quick broadhead selection

Deer hunting? → Fixed blade or mechanical 100-125 grain
Elk/moose hunting? → Fixed blade 125-150 grain
Turkey hunting? → Large cut mechanical or guillotine
First time? → Learn fixed vs mechanical

Fixed blade vs mechanical broadheads

Feature	Fixed Blade	Mechanical (Expandable)
Blade Configuration	Always exposed, no moving parts	Blades closed in flight, open on impact
Cut Diameter	1" - 1.5" typical	1.5" - 2.5" (larger wound channel)
Penetration	Excellent (less resistance)	Good (more resistance when opening)
Reliability	Very high (no mechanical failure)	Good (can fail on bone/hide)
Tuning Required	Yes - exposed blades catch wind	Minimal - flies like field point
Accuracy	Excellent when tuned properly	Excellent (very forgiving)
Best For	Elk, moose, heavy bone, quartering shots	Deer, antelope, broadside shots
Durability	Can be resharpened, reused multiple times	Usually one-time use (blades bend)
Price Range	$35-60 per 3-pack	$40-70 per 3-pack
Legal Everywhere	Yes	No (banned in some states/provinces)

Which broadhead type should you choose?

Choose fixed blade broadheads if:

Hunting elk, moose, bear, or any large/tough game
You'll take quartering shots (not just broadside)
Maximum penetration is priority
You want proven reliability with no moving parts
You're comfortable tuning your bow properly
You're hunting where mechanicals are illegal

Choose mechanical broadheads if:

Hunting whitetail deer or antelope (thin-skinned game)
You primarily take broadside shots within 40 yards
You want maximum blood trail (large cut diameter)
Your bow is difficult to tune or you struggle with broadhead flight
You shoot a fast compound bow (280+ FPS) with heavy arrows
They're legal in your hunting area

Best broadheads for deer hunting

Top fixed blade broadheads for deer

Broadhead Model	Blades	Cut Diameter	Weight Options	Features	Price
Muzzy Trocar	3-blade	1.187"	100, 125 gr	Solid steel, trocar tip, legendary durability	$40/3-pack
Slick Trick Magnum	4-blade	1.125"	100, 125 gr	Super sharp, accurate, great blood trails	$45/3-pack
G5 Montec	3-blade	1.187"	100, 125 gr	One-piece steel, no moving parts, resharpens easily	$40/3-pack
Magnus Stinger	4-blade	1.125"	100, 125, 150 gr	Classic design, proven on thousands of deer	$35/3-pack
QAD Exodus	3-blade swept	1.125"	100, 125 gr	Swept blades for better flight, chisel tip	$45/3-pack
Wasp Jak-Hammer	3-blade	1.375"	100, 125 gr	Large cut, budget-friendly, accurate	$30/3-pack

Top mechanical broadheads for deer

Broadhead Model	Blades	Cut Diameter	Weight Options	Features	Price
Rage Hypodermic	2-blade	2.0"	100, 125 gr	Huge cut, shock collar, massive blood trails	$50/3-pack
Swhacker 2-Blade	2-blade	2.25"	100, 125 gr	Blade-over-blade design, cut-on-contact tip	$45/3-pack
NAP Killzone	2-blade	2.0"	100, 125 gr	Trophy Tip, reliable deployment, proven	$40/3-pack
Grim Reaper Razortip	3-blade	1.5"	100, 125 gr	Rear-deploying blades, accurate, reliable	$45/3-pack
Excalibur Boltcutter	4-blade	1.5"	100, 125 gr	Crossbow or vertical bow, massive wound	$48/3-pack

Deer hunting broadhead recommendations

Compound bow (50-70 lbs, 400+ grain arrows):

Best overall: Muzzy Trocar 100 grain (fixed) - proven reliability on millions of deer
Maximum blood trail: Rage Hypodermic 100 grain (mechanical) - 2" cut diameter
Best value: Wasp Jak-Hammer 100 grain (fixed) - accurate and affordable

Recurve or traditional bow (40-55 lbs):

Best choice: Magnus Stinger 125 grain (fixed) - flies true from traditional bows
Maximum penetration: G5 Montec 125 grain (fixed) - one-piece steel punches through
Avoid mechanical broadheads with traditional bows - insufficient speed for reliable deployment

Shop deer broadheads at Lancaster Archery → | Amazon deer broadheads →

Best broadheads for elk, moose, and large game

Why elk require different broadheads than deer

Elk, moose, and large game have:

Thick hide and heavy bone: Requires maximum penetration (mechanicals often fail)
Massive body cavity: Arrow must reach vitals through 18-24+ inches of tissue
Quartering shots common: Need to punch through shoulder blade and ribs at angle
Tough to blood trail: Heavy body absorbs blood - need both penetration AND good cut

Fixed blade broadheads are strongly recommended for elk and larger game. Mechanical broadheads can work with perfect broadside shots on smaller elk, but fixed blades are more reliable.

Top broadheads for elk and large game

Broadhead Model	Blades	Cut Diameter	Weight Options	Why It Works for Elk	Price
Iron Will S125	3-blade	1.125"	125, 150, 200 gr	Single-bevel, titanium ferrule, extreme penetration	$60/3-pack
Muzzy Trocar HB	3-blade	1.187"	100, 125 gr	Solid steel, proven on elk, crushes bone	$42/3-pack
Slick Trick Magnum	4-blade	1.125"	100, 125, 150 gr	Razor sharp, 4 blades = more tissue damage	$45/3-pack
G5 Montec	3-blade	1.187"	100, 125, 140 gr	One-piece, no parts to fail, elk-proven	$40/3-pack
QAD Exodus	3-blade swept	1.125"	100, 125, 150 gr	Swept design flies true, chisel tip tough	$45/3-pack
Tooth of the Arrow	2-blade	1.5"	125, 150, 190, 250 gr	Single-bevel, huge blades, maximum damage	$55/3-pack
Magnus Black Hornet	4-blade	1.125"	125, 150, 175, 200 gr	Serrated blades saw through, heavy weights	$38/3-pack

Elk broadhead setup recommendations

Standard elk setup (60-70 lbs compound, 500+ grain arrows):

Broadhead weight: 125-150 grains
Total arrow weight: 500-600 grains minimum
FOC: 12-16% for good penetration
Best choices: Muzzy Trocar 125gr, Slick Trick Magnum 125gr, G5 Montec 125gr

Heavy arrow elk setup (60-70 lbs compound, 600+ grain arrows):

Broadhead weight: 150-200 grains
Total arrow weight: 600-700 grains
FOC: 16-20% (extreme FOC) for maximum penetration
Best choices: Iron Will S125 in 150-200gr, Tooth of the Arrow 150-190gr
Ideal for quartering shots and hard-angle penetration

Recurve elk hunting (50-60 lbs, 550+ grain arrows):

Broadhead weight: 125-150 grains minimum
Cut-on-contact tip essential (no chisel tips)
Single-bevel broadheads help penetration at lower speeds
Best choices: Iron Will S125, Tooth of the Arrow, Magnus Black Hornet

Should you use mechanical broadheads on elk?

Generally not recommended. While some hunters successfully use mechanical broadheads on elk with perfect broadside shots, the risk of failure is higher:

Thick hide can prevent proper blade deployment
Heavy shoulder bones can break mechanical blade assemblies
Reduced penetration compared to fixed blades on angled shots
If blade doesn't deploy, you have poor penetration with small wound

If you insist on mechanical for elk: Use only with 70+ lb compound, 550+ grain arrows, broadside shots only, within 40 yards. Rage Hypodermic NC 125gr or Swhacker 125gr are the most reliable mechanical options for elk.

Shop elk broadheads at Lancaster Archery →

Best broadheads for turkey hunting

Why turkeys are different

Turkey hunting with archery requires specialized broadheads because:

Small vital zone: Heart/lungs are baseball-sized - easy to miss
Feathers deflect arrows: Arrow can glance off wing/body without penetrating
Large cut diameter helps: Bigger wound = more likely to hit vitals
Neck/head shots common: Some broadheads designed specifically for turkey anatomy

Turkey broadhead options

Broadhead Type	Model Examples	Cut Diameter	Weight	Best For	Price
Mechanical (large cut)	Rage Hypodermic, Swhacker	2.0"-2.25"	100 gr	Body shots, maximum wound channel	$45-50/3pk
Guillotine style	Magnus Bullhead, Tooth of the Arrow Double Bevel	2.0"-2.5"	100-125 gr	Neck/head shots, decapitation	$35-45/3pk
Fixed blade (small game)	Muzzy Trocar, Magnus Stinger	1.125"-1.375"	100-125 gr	Versatile, use for turkey then deer	$35-40/3pk
Specialized turkey	NAP Spitfire Gobbler Getter	1.5"	100 gr	Designed for turkey body, opens on impact	$40/3pk

Turkey broadhead recommendations

For body shots (through wing into vitals):

Best choice: Rage Hypodermic 100 grain - 2" cut ensures hitting vitals
Alternative: Swhacker 2-blade 100 grain - 2.25" cut, very reliable deployment
Large mechanical broadheads work best for body shots due to massive wound channel

For head/neck shots:

Best choice: Magnus Bullhead 100 grain - guillotine design, instant kill
Traditional: Tooth of the Arrow Double Bevel - huge blades decapitate
Aim for neck just below head - instant, humane kill with proper shot placement

Setup tips for turkey hunting:

Use 100 grain broadheads to keep trajectory similar to practice
Total arrow weight 350-400 grains is fine (speed helps with small target)
Practice extensively at 20-30 yards - turkeys are small targets
Wait for broadside or quartering away shot - avoid head-on shots

Shop turkey broadheads on Amazon →

Choosing the right broadhead weight

Broadhead weight by game species

Game Species	Recommended Weight	Total Arrow Weight	Why This Weight
Turkey	100 grain	350-400 grains	Speed important for small target
Whitetail Deer	100-125 grain	400-500 grains	Balance of speed and penetration
Mule Deer / Antelope	100-125 grain	400-500 grains	Longer shots need flatter trajectory
Black Bear	125-150 grain	450-550 grains	Heavy hide and fat layer
Elk / Caribou	125-150 grain	500-600 grains	Large body cavity, heavy bone
Moose	150-200 grain	600-700 grains	Massive animal, maximum penetration
Brown/Grizzly Bear	150-200 grain	650-750 grains	Dangerous game, need complete pass-through

How broadhead weight affects your arrow

Increasing broadhead weight from 100 to 125 grains:

Arrow drops ~5-8 FPS
Total arrow weight increases ~25 grains
FOC increases by ~1-2%
Slightly more drop at distance (re-sight bow)
Better penetration and momentum

Increasing broadhead weight from 125 to 150 grains:

Arrow drops ~8-12 FPS
Total arrow weight increases ~25 grains
FOC increases by ~1-2%
Noticeable trajectory change (re-sight required)
Significant penetration improvement

Should you match field point and broadhead weight?

Yes, absolutely. Your field points (for practice) should match your broadhead weight exactly. If you hunt with 125 grain broadheads, practice with 125 grain field points. This ensures:

Identical arrow flight and trajectory
Your sight settings transfer directly from practice to hunting
Proper arrow spine for hunting setup
No surprises when you switch to broadheads

Use our broadhead weight calculator to determine the optimal weight for your bow setup and target game species.

How to tune your bow for broadheads

Step 1: Verify Arrow Spine

Wrong spine is the #1 cause of broadhead flight issues. Use our spine calculator with broadhead weight included.

Step 2: Sight In Field Points

Get perfect groups with field points at 20, 30, and 40 yards. This establishes your baseline before adding broadheads.

Step 3: Shoot Broadheads

Shoot broadheads at same distances. If they hit differently than field points, your bow needs tuning - don't adjust sights yet.

Step 4: Adjust Arrow Rest

If broadheads hit left/right: move rest. If high/low: adjust nocking point. Mechanical broadheads require minimal tuning.

Common broadhead flight problems and fixes

Broadheads hit left of field points (right-handed shooter):

Cause: Arrow spine too weak, or rest too far left
Fix: Move arrow rest slightly right, or increase arrow stiffness (cut shorter, heavier point)

Broadheads hit right of field points (right-handed shooter):

Cause: Arrow spine too stiff, or rest too far right
Fix: Move arrow rest slightly left, or decrease arrow stiffness

Broadheads hit high:

Cause: Nock point too low, or broadhead catching updraft from fletching
Fix: Raise nocking point slightly, check fletching clearance

Broadheads hit low:

Cause: Nock point too high (less common)
Fix: Lower nocking point slightly

Broadheads plane or spiral in flight:

Cause: Bent blades, dull blades, or fletching contact with arrow rest
Fix: Check broadhead blades are straight, sharpen if dull, verify fletching clearance

When to paper tune for broadheads

If you can't get broadheads to impact within 2-3 inches of field points after rest adjustments, paper tune your bow:

Shoot bare shaft through paper at 6 feet (should tear clean hole)
Adjust rest position until bare shaft tears clean hole
Verify with fletched arrow (should also tear clean)
Now broadheads and field points should impact same spot

Broadheads that require minimal tuning

If you struggle with broadhead tuning, choose these forgiving options:

Any mechanical broadhead - flies like field point due to closed blades
Single-bevel broadheads - Iron Will, Tooth of the Arrow (spin-stabilized)
Small cut fixed blades - Magnus Stinger, Slick Trick (less wind planning)

Broadhead sharpness and maintenance

How sharp should broadheads be?

Razor sharp. If it won't shave hair off your arm, it's not sharp enough. A sharp broadhead:

Cuts through hide and tissue with minimal resistance
Causes more bleeding and faster blood trails
Penetrates deeper than dull broadheads
Creates larger effective wound channel

How to sharpen broadheads

Fixed blade broadheads:

Use dedicated broadhead sharpener (file, stone, or ceramic sharpener)
Maintain original blade angle (typically 25-30 degrees)
Sharpen both sides evenly to keep blade centered
Test sharpness by shaving hair - should cut cleanly
Touch up with ceramic hone for razor edge

Mechanical broadheads:

Most mechanical blades are NOT designed to be resharpened
Replace blades after each use (they bend on impact)
Keep practice mechanicals separate from hunting mechanicals
Test mechanical deployment before season (shoot into target, verify blades open)

When to replace broadheads

Replace fixed blade broadheads when:

Blades are chipped, bent, or damaged
Tip is bent or dulled beyond repair
After 2-3 sharpenings (blades get thin)
Before hunting season if used for practice shots

Replace mechanical broadheads:

After EVERY shot into animal (blades bend)
After 3-5 practice shots into target (blades wear)
If any part is bent or damaged
Before hunting season (use fresh broadheads)

Broadhead storage and care

Store in broadhead case or with blade protectors
Keep blades covered until ready to shoot (prevents dulling, injury)
Apply light oil to prevent rust (especially carbon steel blades)
Check ferrule threads for damage before screwing onto arrow
Never shoot broadheads into hard targets (dirt, wood) - destroys blades

The broadhead debate: what really matters for killing game

The fixed vs mechanical debate has raged for 30 years in bowhunting circles. Walk into any archery shop or hunting forum and you'll find passionate advocates on both sides. Some swear mechanicals are "gimmicks" that fail when you need them most. Others claim fixed blades are outdated and mechanicals kill faster with massive blood trails.

Here's what actually matters after seeing hundreds of successful kills with both types: shot placement trumps everything. A perfect double-lung shot with a mediocre broadhead kills faster than a marginal hit with the "best" broadhead money can buy. The broadhead that flies most accurately from YOUR bow, that YOU have confidence in, is the right choice.

That said, there are real differences that matter in specific situations. I've watched mechanical broadheads fail spectacularly on elk shoulder blades - blades that wouldn't deploy through thick hide, or that broke on impact with heavy bone. I've also watched fixed blade broadheads plane and helicopter through the air because the archer never tuned them properly, resulting in wounded deer running off into thick cover.

For deer hunting in the eastern US - thick woods, shorter shots (under 35 yards), broadside opportunities - mechanical broadheads work brilliantly. The 2-inch cut creates massive blood loss. Deer rarely make it more than 80 yards with a good hit. The ease of tuning means more hunters actually shoot them accurately. Rage Hypodermic and Swhacker have killed hundreds of thousands of whitetails reliably.

For elk, moose, or any situation where you might take quartering shots - western hunting, traditional bow hunting, or anywhere penetration is critical - fixed blade broadheads are the better choice. That Muzzy Trocar or Slick Trick Magnum punching through a shoulder blade and into the vitals? That's the difference between recovering your animal and losing it. The reliability of fixed blades - no moving parts to fail - matters more when you're 5 miles into the backcountry chasing a bull elk.

Weight matters more than most hunters realize. That jump from 100 grain to 125 grain broadheads adds only 8-10 FPS of arrow drop, but the penetration improvement is measurable - especially with heavy arrows. For elk, I won't use anything lighter than 125 grain, and I prefer 150 grain on my heavy arrow setup. The momentum difference is significant when you're trying to punch through 20+ inches of elk.

Sharpness is non-negotiable. A razor-sharp fixed blade at 125 grains will out-penetrate a dull 150 grain broadhead every time. Before every hunt, test your broadheads by shaving arm hair. If it won't shave cleanly, it's not sharp enough. I've seen deer run 200+ yards with dull broadheads that barely cut, while a sharp broadhead drops the same deer in 40 yards.

Bottom line for most hunters: if you're hunting whitetail deer with a modern compound, shoot what flies best from YOUR bow. If that's mechanical broadheads and you're taking broadside shots, use them confidently. If you hunt elk or take quartering shots, use fixed blade broadheads and learn to tune properly. But whatever you choose, shoot it extensively before season, verify it hits with your field points, and keep it razor sharp. The broadhead that's perfectly tuned and hits where you aim is better than the "best" broadhead that you can't shoot accurately.

Broadhead selection FAQs

What broadheads should I use for deer hunting?

For deer: Fixed blade broadheads are most reliable. Recommended: Muzzy Trocar (100-125 grain, 3-blade), Slick Trick Magnum (100-125 grain, 4-blade), G5 Montec (100-125 grain, 3-blade). Mechanical option: Rage Hypodermic (100 grain, 2-inch cut). Choose 100-125 grain weight, cut diameter 1-1.5 inches for fixed blade or 1.5-2 inches for mechanical. Total arrow weight should be 400-500 grains. Shop deer broadheads at Lancaster Archery.

What's the difference between fixed blade and mechanical broadheads?

Fixed blade broadheads: Blades always exposed, more reliable, better penetration on bone, no moving parts to fail, fly like field points when tuned. Best for: elk, large game, quartering shots, traditional bows. Mechanical (expandable) broadheads: Blades deploy on impact, larger cut diameter (1.5-2+ inches), fly more like field points without tuning, less penetration through heavy bone. Best for: deer, antelope, broadside shots, high-speed compounds. Fixed blades are more reliable but require more tuning. Mechanicals are more forgiving but can fail on heavy bone.

What grain broadhead should I use?

Broadhead weight recommendations: Deer/antelope: 100 grain standard, 125 grain for better penetration. Elk/black bear: 125 grain minimum, 150 grain preferred for heavy arrows. Moose/brown bear: 150-200 grain for maximum penetration. Turkey: 100-125 grain with large cut diameter. Match your broadhead weight to your field point weight for identical arrow flight. Heavier broadheads improve FOC and penetration but reduce speed. Use our broadhead weight calculator to determine optimal weight for your setup.

Do I need to tune my bow for broadheads?

Yes, especially for fixed blade broadheads. Broadheads have more surface area than field points, exposing any tuning issues. Process: 1) Sight in with field points at 20-40 yards. 2) Shoot broadheads at same distances. 3) If broadheads impact differently, adjust rest position (not sight). 4) Paper tune if needed. Mechanical broadheads require less tuning because blades are closed in flight. Fixed blades require precise arrow spine, proper fletching contact, and arrow rest adjustment. A well-tuned bow shoots broadheads and field points to the same point of impact.

Are mechanical broadheads as effective as fixed blade?

Mechanical broadheads are effective for deer and thin-skinned game on broadside shots, but less reliable than fixed blades in certain situations. Advantages: Larger cut diameter (more blood loss), easier to tune, better accuracy for some shooters. Disadvantages: Can fail on heavy bone contact, less penetration on quartering shots, moving parts can malfunction, not legal in all states/provinces. For whitetail deer with modern compounds (60+ lbs, 400+ grain arrows), mechanicals work well. For elk, moose, or any large/tough game, fixed blades are more reliable. When in doubt, choose fixed blade.

Can I reuse broadheads after shooting a deer?

Fixed blade: Yes, if blades aren't damaged. Clean thoroughly, inspect for bent/chipped blades, resharpen to razor edge, test on target before reusing for hunting. Replace if tip bent or blades damaged. Mechanical: No, replace after every animal. Blades bend on impact and won't deploy properly on second use. You can practice with used mechanicals to save money, but use fresh broadheads for hunting.

What cut diameter is best for deer?

Fixed blade: 1.0-1.5 inches is optimal. Larger cuts bleed more but reduce penetration. 1.125-1.187 inches (Muzzy, Slick Trick, G5) is the sweet spot. Mechanical: 1.5-2.0 inches creates massive blood trails. Rage Hypodermic (2 inch) and Swhacker (2.25 inch) are very effective on deer. Don't go larger than 2.5 inches - penetration suffers significantly. For elk, prioritize penetration over cut diameter (1.0-1.25 inches is fine).

Should I practice with my hunting broadheads?

Yes, but sparingly. Shoot 3-5 arrows with hunting broadheads to verify they hit with field points, then save them for hunting. Practice extensively with field points that match your broadhead weight. This preserves your expensive broadheads and keeps them sharp for hunting. Exception: mechanical broadheads - buy practice pack for shooting, fresh pack for hunting (blades wear out quickly).